Taaktana, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa from Marriott review

What is Taaktana, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Labuan Bajo? 

Taaktana is the first Marriott property in Labuan Bajo and it’s a significant debut for the brand, sprawling over 40 waterfront acres and spanning a hillside for better views the farther one ascends. There are just 70 accommodations, which include 45 suites and 25 stand-alone villas, and architecturally it’s one of a kind, with an idiosyncratic take on traditional Indonesian design that includes pointy, cone-shaped roofs that draw from the Manggarai region’s signature spider web-shaped rice fields.

My check-in at the open-air lobby with a giant Botero-esque canoe sculpture in the center (an ode to legendary Indonesian sea nomads) felt ceremonial. The welcome ritual included selecting from four colors of bracelets, each with a unique meaning (my choice: green for Taaktana, which translates to “green land”), and a delicious fruity refreshment that contained osmanthus tea. It was quickly evident that the resort and its offerings had been very thoughtfully designed to share the unique culture of this part of Flores.

Everyone seemed to know our names from the moment we stepped out of our airport transport. Yes, I’m a journalist, so staff members were likely alerted to my presence, but from what I gathered, this is standard practice from a team that was incredibly seasoned and eager to make everyone feel special.

How to book Taaktana, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Labuan Bajo

The resort is a 1-hour flight east of Bali, on Flores Island

The gateway to Komodo National Park is also a portal to the distinctive culture of Flores Island’s West Manggarai Regency in the East Nusa Tenggara province. Labuan Bajo and Flores Island are such unknown destinations to many that I was told even some people in the current Indonesian capital of Jakarta are not aware of them, though they’d know of the endangered Komodo dragons, which are world famous.

Suites and villas feel luxurious and private

There are multiple “wow” moments when it comes to accommodations at Taaktana. My two-bedroom villa had its own private pool, for instance — not a plunge pool, but a proper pool with an infinity edge and shallow section. The villa also had sea views from practically the whole living area, a primary bedroom with a king-size bed (the secondary had two doubles), dining and living rooms, and a terrace lounge and daybed.

The decor aesthetic is sumptuous and refined, with a rug inspired by the brilliant colors of a Labuan Bajo sunset, patterns in the TV stand and bar cabinet that reference Flores’ ikat patterns, a vibrant woven wall hanging evoking the island environs, and intricately beaded objets d’art.

The bedrooms were elegant yet cozy and tactile, with a blend of brass lighting; thatched ceilings; petrified wood accents; nightstands with marble, wood and leather elements; and textured wall coverings.

The stone-tiled bathrooms were beautiful, all creamy white with brown touches, including a wooden tray across the bathtub for resting a glass of wine and book while soaking in the provided pink bath salts. I appreciated the attention to detail that extended to toiletries: There were Sodashi body wash and lotion, and Sachajuan shampoo and conditioner.

The closets were quite large and kitted out with lightweight bathrobes with patterned trim, woven tote bags to borrow (or purchase), branded bucket hats and clothes steamers.

Even the pool towels were pretty: a delicate blush pink with the hotel’s sundial-reminiscent logo embossed. I also enjoyed the fact that the villa was stocked with multiple gratis snacks (fantastic chocolate chip cookies, fruit and local chips), plus housemade Negroni and Old-Fashioned bottled cocktails in cute little jars.

The drinking and dining are memorable and crave-worthy

The resort’s half dozen dining concepts felt robust, dynamic and impressive considering its footprint of just 70 accommodations. Leros was the all-day restaurant in the main building with three dining space options, from indoors to out, that each offered unique experiences, views and furnishings.

Leros

Inside was the most glamorous scene, with a hammered silver ceiling that reminded me of reflections on water and an intricate mosaic floor. The breakfast buffet was extensive and everything was made in-house, with some spices and herbs picked from the resort garden plus Taaktana-made cashew butter and local honey.

While there were plenty of Western options, quite a significant a la carte menu and a bounty of baked goods, I found myself drawn to the Indonesian dishes. These changed daily and included my new favorite local discovery, crunchy trancam (described to me as a sort of raw gado gado salad but with seasoned coconut instead of peanut sauce), as well as ayam bakar madu (honey roasted chicken), soto ayam (chicken noodle soup) and bubur Jakarta (think congee but Indonesian and with turmeric). On the last morning the team made me a special treat: the best bubur sum sum (coconut rice porridge) I’ve had.

Our other meals at Leros were also memorable, and I especially enjoyed Indonesian-influenced dishes such as the tender and wonderfully savory oxtail sop buntut (295,000 Indonesian rupiah; $19) and pelalah spring roll (185,000 rupiah; $12) over the Western selections, which included flatbreads, wagyu steaks and pastas. The coconut dessert (185,000 rupiah; $12) with young coco shavings, kaffir lime and meringue was a light, chilled, zingy way to finish a meal.

Umasa

The mere memory of my ceviche-like gohu tuna and iga babi pork ribs at Umasa, the Indonesian restaurant with rich furnishings and sunset-facing sea views, makes me want to book a trip back. I tried the three-course shared-style rantang — otherwise known as tiffin box — menu (2,100,000 rupiah per person; $136) at Leros as well.

It featured both those dishes as well as delicacies like crispy fried corn fritters and a wonderfully spiced fish charred in banana leaves from West Sumatra. I loved the richness and depth of flavor in each and every dish. The menu was a robust celebration of the entire archipelago and should definitely be the focus of several meals over the course of a stay. Don’t miss the kolak pisang for dessert, a take on the super-sweet dish that features banana, coconut milk and palm sugar. The restaurant’s drink menu has a heavy focus on fermented beverages, from tepache cocktails and jamu to kombucha and zero-proof wine.

Taba

Japanese fusion flavors and open-flame robata cooking could be found at the open-air rooftop restaurant, Taba, from 5 p.m. onward. I recommend going later in the evening or when there’s a breeze, as I didn’t love sweating through our early dinner in a space without fans on an evening with rather still air.

The panorama of island peaks and seascapes was exceptional, though, while the decadent tableside nigiri preparation is a must, with the locally caught selection during my meal being expertly sliced and topped with a variety of caviar and roe (295,000 rupiah; $19).

Nera Lounge

Nera Lounge was one of the most beautiful areas in the resort (don’t miss the sculptural central art installation inspired by local fishing traditions and the coral reef); even if you’re not a tea lover it’s worth a visit, especially for a tea ceremony that involves putting a hot teacup on your forehead.

I usually find the nibbles and sweets at a formal tea too stuffy and traditional, but the Indonesian spin on the custom — think savory martabak, fuchsia-hued kue tok, pineapple tarts, watermelon-hued kue lapis and Javanese mata roda — blew me away.

Maiga!

For the daily sundown ritual — a complimentary small sip featuring the local palm spirit sopi and an amuse-bouche — looking out at the radiant sun dropping into the sea, there’s Maiga! The overwater cocktail lounge has a beautifully illustrated menu depicting thematic inspiration for the libations that feature local ingredients in interesting combinations I’d never have imagined, such as the Es Jagung (225,000 rupiah; $14.50) with bourbon, corn, cacao and butter.

Pool bar

There was also a pool bar serving snacks, bites and savory delights (my fave: the katsu sando for 345,000 rupiah; $22), which was like a mini trip to Japan for my mouth, plus classic cocktails. At the Coffee Roastery, beans from Flores are roasted in-house and turned into great coffees and sweet coffee concoctions such as the cashew blossom latte (110,000 rupiah; $7).

In-villa dining was efficient and well operated, and the staff always asked right away about food allergies or dietary restrictions, which I noticed were very clearly noted on all the resort menus and even breakfast buffet signage (and even more appreciated by my gluten- and dairy-free comrade).

The resort’s pools offer something to suit everyone

Whether you like to relax with a cocktail on your holidays or strap on a pair of goggles and swim laps, there’s a pool for you at this sprawling resort. Guests will find bliss at the expansive blue-tiled free-form resort pool just behind the beach.

From a distance, it almost looked like a mirage, its infinity edge blurring the line between pool and saltwater. It featured an inviting circular swim-up bar on one side with a seashell-hued exterior and a row of pool chairs and umbrellas.

Up at the main building, just outside Leros and beside the gym, was the Olympic-size 50-meter lap pool with three roped-off lanes for serious athletes. There was also a warm, shallow, round pool by the kids club for little ones with its own sea view.

Just beyond, the resort’s beach was not as picturesque as Komodo’s famous Pink Beach, but its caramel sand and swimmable wave-free waters made it an attractive option, too, especially for saltwater lovers.

Fitness buffs will find what they need at the 24-hour gym  

The resort’s fitness center was an expansive, high-ceilinged space flooded with natural light and a plethora of high-quality equipment for both cardio and weight lifting as well as stretching and yoga.

Amenities included cold towels, fresh fruit and fruit-infused water. There were additional active pursuits offered in the recreation calendar for folks who prefer other types of movement, such as sunset yoga, sunrise trekking, boxing, aqua aerobics and circuit training sessions.

Instead of working out inside, I got my exercise on a stand-up paddleboard, rowing between and under the overwater villas and through the pier pilings, spotting clown fish, parrotfish, urchin and a pale pink starfish from above. The boards, plus kayaks, water scooters and snorkeling equipment, were all complimentary for guests to reserve in advance.

The sophisticated spa and wellness offerings go far beyond Balinese massage

In the local language, “dia” means “beautiful,” making it an apt name for a wellness destination with beautifully textured decor and lots of light.

Dia Spa had a sauna plus hot and cold plunge baths (with a prime view), a salon and six treatment rooms. Pampering sessions included the flowing yet strong Bajo massage that put me in a state of bliss before a nourishing, flower-laden scalp therapy called Hygge Harmony Scent Hair Treatment, which majorly boosted my confidence (and the volume of my locks).

Sustainability is a priority

So many hotels talk the talk regarding sustainability, but they don’t always back it up with meaningful action. However, especially for a resort that’s not bragging about its environmental friendliness, Taaktana is making an impressive effort to be responsible and even regenerative.

For one thing, several staffers go out in boats each morning to pluck floating rubbish from the ocean, collecting a haul that’s usually several large bags’ worth and separating and recycling what’s possible. On land, staffers also take part in biweekly Bersih Bajo cleanups. There are Upcycle Elixirs on the drink menus that are made from what would otherwise be food waste (such as coffee grinds and pineapple skins).

I didn’t have time, but a guide offered to take me snorkeling to see the coral fragments they’re planting in an underwater garden to help regenerate the reef. They’re ambitiously working toward a resortwide zero-waste program as well.

Appealing activities include Komodo dragons and Manggarai cultural experiences

Daylong island-hopping boat trips that include Komodo National Park as well as Padar Island, Pink Beach and Manta Point snorkeling are essentially a given for a resort this close to the prehistoric Komodo dragons. There are three price points available for a luxury charter, speedboat or open trip, ranging from 95,000,000 rupiah ($6,138) per vessel for eight people on a deluxe yacht down to 2,500,000 rupiah ($161.50) per person for the last. But this resort is no one-trick pony; I was particularly impressed with the excursions and activities beyond the standard offerings.

A fascinating half-day land tour (8,000,000 rupiah; $517 for two) that I took covered cultural points of interest including ikat and songkat weaving and a unique ritualistic men’s dance called caci, which somehow managed to be both adorable and awe-inspiring when we watched it at a traditional mountain village. There was also Sunset Hill Trekking and Picnic Delight, which included drinks, bites and a Polaroid camera to capture the unique panoramas (2,000,000 rupiah; $129 per person).

On the property, guests can watch a caci performance on Thursday evenings and take part in marine biology talks, lessons in the local instrument sasando, cooking sessions and master classes in making delicious — as I can personally attest — cocktails with the sopi spirit derived from palm sap.

These took place in a collection of circular spaces and buildings such as the library with pointy cone-shaped roofs, again inspired by Wae Rebo village’s roofs. There was also a kids club for ages 4 to 12 (younger children must be accompanied by an adult) with Little Dragon Explorers activities such as Komodo dragon art and face painting, herb garden tours, astronomy night, Manggarai dress-up, and batik coloring sessions.

Reasons Taaktana, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Labuan Bajo might not be for you

• If you’re looking for a vacation with nightlife and/or a shopping or dining scene beyond your resort, this destination won’t fill those desires.
• While there is plenty to do and sample each and every day on the property (and on tours outside it), the town of Labuan Bajo is still quite undeveloped.
• If nature isn’t your thing, there is still a lot to engage with, but this resort might not be your first choice.
• Our villa stayed nice and cool (when the sliding glass doors were closed), but Labuan Bajo can be sweltering, so some might feel stifled by the heat.

Accessibility at Taaktana

In my experience, Indonesian hotels and resorts aren’t as robust when it comes to accessibility as are hotels and resorts in the U.S. However, this property does fairly well. It has one first-floor accessible junior suite, and there is a wheelchair ramp up to the lobby with elevators to navigate through the main building, which is home to the beautiful tea lounge, main restaurant, ballrooms and gym. For all guests, including mobility-impaired visitors, there is golf cart service for getting around the resort.

Alternatives to Taaktana, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Labuan Bajo

Labuan Bajo is still a very lightly developed destination, though that will likely change in the coming years. Ayana Komodo Waecicu Beach (sister property to Ayana Estate in Bali’s Jimbaran Bay) is the other major luxury resort and it’s just minutes away. For future travel planning, IHG is building a forthcoming Crowne Plaza Labuan Bajo on the hilltop visible from Taaktana.

Checking out of Taaktana, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Labuan Bajo

Taaktana is not only an excellent value when redeeming points, but also I felt it offered an experience on par with resorts at a far higher price point, like a Four Seasons or Capella. The sophistication and luxury of it, for being in such a remote and relatively unknown locale, was a happy surprise and the culinary offerings, especially every Indonesian dish I tasted, were memorable. It’s also worth noting that in late September during my stay we neither saw nor felt a single mosquito.

One of the many high points of the resort was the warm, joyful sense of hospitality. We were constantly greeted with kind smiles and offers to walk us through the breakfast buffet or tell us about a Manggarai tradition or something else that helped make the experience even warmer. We couldn’t walk anywhere without a buggy pulling up and offering a ride, and it wasn’t rare that a staff member (nearly all of whom were Indonesian) reached out to my baby — and she to them — and cuddled her while walking her around sweetly.

My departure was bittersweet because, although I was very eager to be reunited with my husband and my other daughter, I was sad to leave this extraordinarily well-rounded resort that I’d grown quite attached to in just a few days.